A few glorious autumn days spent exploring the rich history and scenic views of the English South Coast
- Lisa Olafsdottir
- Nov 11, 2023
- 7 min read
Updated: Sep 26, 2024
Our darling Wayne set off on a five-day excursion with one of his favourite groups this October and the destination was Bournemouth, oh let’s add Portsmouth and Chichester to that with a final stop in Salisbury for a lunch stop en route back to Cardiff. Why settle with one destination when there are so many places to explore and experience?
The first stop was a lunch stop in the charming and ancient town of Winchester. The town centre is always buzzing with life, and there are restaurants and cafes in abundance to choose from. There was a lot to see for those eager to stretch their legs after the coach ride from Cardiff. Winchester Cathedral is the most obvious landmark to set off for while taking a stroll along the wonderful old winding streets. After a good stretch of the legs, it was time to head to Bournemouth where the group would be staying for the next few nights.
No visit to Portsmouth is proven unless you snap a photo of Portsmouth's most towering landmark, the Spinnaker Tower.
Day two was destined for Portsmouth, the Great Waterfront City which is packed with attractions and activities where visitors can explore the coastline and its centuries upon centuries of history. Portsmouth is a compact city and many of its greatest attractions are more often than not within walking distance from one another. Walking and getting around Portsmouth is easy and accessible as it is very flat. The first stop in this port city and naval base was The D-Day Story Museum, the clue is in the name. The museum tells the story of ordinary people working together to achieve the extraordinary, to get an army across the English Channel and into France to face an enemy that was well-armed and trained. The D-Day Story showcases the personal possessions and words of those who liberated Europe from Nazi occupation with stunning imagery, audio-visual presentations, authentic vehicles and hands-on interactives help to bring the story to life.
Two years ago we, the Wood-Smith-Olafsdottir family went to the D-Day story while on a family trip and all of us found it both fascinating and engaging. You know how it goes, anything the kiddos can touch or mess around with makes them happy and that makes us big people happy.
After immersing themselves in stories and facts about the D-Day invasion, the group had an afternoon of leisure to explore the sights, such as the Historic Dockyard and the Spinnaker Tower, or to go shopping at Gun Wharf. Portsmouth is renowned for its maritime heritage, with the Portsmouth Historic Dockyard being a prominent attraction. The dockyard houses the interactive National Museum of the Royal Navy. There visitors can embark on the wooden warship HMS Victory, where Nelson died in the Battle of Trafalgar, as well as the HMS Warrior. The Tudor ship Mary Rose is also preserved in the dockyard museum, forever kept wet for her preservation.
We loved the Dockyard Museum and have found it hard to pick a favourite ship, but it might have to be HSM Warrior where the actors on board won us over. They made the ship come alive with their stories about the sailors lives aboard the Warrior. We, the big ones loved the Mary Rose, how fantastic and unbelievable it was seeing this wooden structure and its hidden treasures that had previously been buried in the English Channel’s seabed for over 400 years.
But it’s not all museums, ships and wars in Portsmouth; today it is a thriving city with flourishing tourism and caters for keen shoppers who can immerse themselves in shopping or browsing in Gunwharf Quays. If shopping and ship hopping aren’t your thing; a 3km walk along the Millennium Promenade is completely free and takes you along Portsmouth's historic waterfront with panels providing background history. The route runs between the Historic Dockyard and Southsea Castle. This is where Henry VIII stood and watched his precious ship the Mary Rose sink.
Built in 1544 Southsea Castle was part of a series of fortifications that King Henry VIII constructed to protect England's coasts from invaders. In the English Civil War, nearly a century later, the castle was captured for the only time in its history by parliamentarian forces. Over the centuries, Southsea Castle's defences were strengthened to continue protecting Portsmouth. In the 19th century, a tunnel was built to defend the castle moat, which visitors can still enter and explore today. I don’t know if this might be just by my kids but they loved shouting for the ecos in the tunnel, climbing its walls and cannons. We loved it!
On the third day, the group went full steam ahead for a full day in the 12th-century Cathedral city of Chichester, a beautiful and vibrant city in West Sussex, known for its attractive old streets, fabulous theatre and beautiful harbour area. Fun fact, Chichester is the only city in West Sussex and is its county town. With its historic cathedral and the remnants of Roman streets, walls, and gateways, many consider it to be one of the most charming and stylish cities on the South Coast. Chichester boasts all the attractions of a bustling urban centre and Wednesdays are market days. The group started their day in town browsing through the ever-popular Wednesday market and its large variety of stalls and food vans
The afternoon was spent exploring this fascinating city with its ancient circular walls, and unique nooks and crannies. The charming North, South, East and West shopping streets radiate from the central market cross dating from medieval times and has overseen many shoppers and events throughout its lifetime.
The city of Chichester boasts the magnificent 940-year-old Chichester Cathedral. Its towering spire dominates the horizon for miles around, standing tall and proud above the tranquil streets below. Once inside, visitors are treated to stunning arches and beautiful stained glass windows. The medieval stone carvings share a home with world-famous contemporary artworks, a true feast for the eyes and mind.
For those interested in Roman heritage, the Fishbourne Roman Palace is only a short 21-minute bus ride away from the centre of Chichester. The palace was discovered by local workmen in 1960 and is considered one of the most impressive Roman ruins in Britain. This villa presents a different aspect of Roman civilisation in England. It served as a hub for trade, feasting, and diplomacy. Visitors can truly immerse themselves in Roman civilisation in the museum gallery which tells the history of the site and displays many artefacts found during excavations.
The Pallant House Gallery is a must-stop for lovers of modern art. The gallery is one of the most unique modern art museums in Britain. It showcases an impressive collection of Modern British art from 1900 until today, all housed in a gorgeous Grade I listed 18th-century townhouse, with a stunning modern 21st-century extension that creates a truly unique atmosphere.
Day four was set for some locomotive action, seaside loitering and general enjoyment. The starting point of the day was Norden Railway Station which sits north of Corfe Castle. After going through the 1940s-style ticket office and waiting room the group stepped onto the platform and hopped on board a steam train to journey to Swanage, a seaside town on the Jurassic Coast situated at the eastern end of the Isle of Purbeck. There is something nostalgic and romantic about sitting back and relaxing during a leisurely trip behind a steam locomotive while taking in the views of the beautiful Purbeck countryside and stunning and varied views of the iconic remains of Corfe Castle, grazing ponies and sheep in the rolling green fields.
It has to be said that Corfe Castle quite dramatically dominates the landscape where it stands on a natural hill overlooking the village bearing the same name. It was built in the 11th century and had the important task of it was designed to protect from invasion from the coast and guarding the gap between the Isle of Purbeck and the rest of Dorset, nothing could pass in or out without going past the Castle. It is thought to be one of the earliest castles in England to be built partly using stone. It was in active use throughout the centuries and stayed unchanged until it was blown up to smithereens by Parliamentarian forces during the English Civil War.
Corfe Castle as in the village is nestled beneath the ruin of Corfe Castle and is constructed almost completely from the local grey Purbeck limestone. it is quite simply marvellous to wander through and feel like time has turned back. Corfe Castle Village is genuinely one of the most unique and beautiful settings in the UK. While visitors meander among the gorgeous streets of Corfe they are spoilt with choices in old-style pubs, restaurants and tea rooms offering food and drinks. The delicious village bakery is also conveniently situated in the town square, yum.
But the group didn’t stop for Corfe, they were headed for the seaside on the steam train to enjoy the charming little town of Swanage. The town was a small fishing port until the early 19th century when the arrival of the steam railway brought better access from the Purbeck stone mines to the harbour. Swanage was built on the success of the Victorian stone industry and -trade. Purbeck stone was in high demand then as it had been since ancient times. Many of England’s major cathedrals were built using the stone as far north as Lincoln and even here in Wales, Llandaff Cathedral is built with Purbeck stone.
Additional help to Swanage’s popularity came when King George III made sea bathing fashionable and so began the town's transition to a beautiful and successful holiday resort. This resulted in the rapid expansion of the town, and it has maintained many of its Victorian buildings and character. Swanage is still a popular seaside destination, bursting with exciting things to do and idyllic scenery all along the coast. Oh, who doesn’t like to be by the seaside? And to have a stroll along the prom.
On day five the group departed Bournemouth for their journey back home to South Wales, with a lunch stop in Salisbury. This is another city famous for its Cathedral and this one has the tallest church spire in the UK, it is home to one of the four surviving Magna Carta.
Salisbury Cathedral features in a famous painting by Constable, Salisbury Cathedral from the Meadows. He must have been utterly fascinated with the building as painted more than 300 paintings of the Cathedral which was far away from his beloved Suffolk.
Another successful and fun tour in the bank and we can’t wait to see where this group wants to go next.
Lisa
Comments